Pattern-following bits have the bearing between the shank and the cutting flutes and were designed for following non- rectilinear patterns and templates. Flush-trim bits have the bearing on the end and were designed for flushing edging applied to panels. When I need to repeat a curve, or match a one-off profile perfectly, I work outside of straight lines on many of my projects. This allows me to either cut rebates of different sizes or, when I need to cut a big rebate, I can start with a large bearing to take a small bite and then shift down through progressively smaller bearings to take subsequent bites until I reach my final dimension. To maximise the versatility of the one cutter, I have a set of bearings of different radii. Used for cutting a rectangular cross-section profile from the edge of a board or sheet, these bits have enormous utility in many applications, from small boxes to large-scale kitchen cabinet production. Can also be used to form mitres for box and carcase joints. When I want an alternative to a radial profile for softening an edge, I will sometimes reach for a chamfering bit, which leaves a 45° profile on the finished edge. I tend to use the smaller ones for the subtle softening of edges. These are ideal for profiling and softening hard edges and are commonly available in radii from 2mm up to 25.4mm. Needless to say these are the most costly of the bunch but they yield superior results as they bring the best of both – chip removal and edge protection, to the operation. Finally, you can get compression bits which have flutes in opposing spirals for both up and down cuts. Others are down-cut, very useful for protecting the edges of the cut area from being torn out, such as when template- cutting veneered panels or cutting hinge mortises. Where possible, I will reach for a spiral bit over a straight-fluted bit every time.īear in mind there are up-cut bits, which are great for fast debris removal, such as when cutting deep mortises for mortise and tenon joints. With their shear-cutting action, they are far superior to the straight- fluted bits as they run cooler, cut cleaner and remove debris more efficiently. Recently spiral bits have become more readily available. Commonly available in sizes ranging from 1.5mm to 25.4mm. They can be used for grooving, rebating, edge-trimming, templating, mortising, inlay work and more. These are the workhorses and have surprising versatility. Here are the 8 bits I regard as essential. My advice is to acquire individual bits as you need them for specific projects, rather than buying sets that may have bits you’ll never use. They are shown alongside the profiles they cut, but used in combination the variations are limitless. The router bits shown here are some of the ones I most often reach for. The type of woodworking you do will inform your router bit buying choices. Signwriters will have core box bits and diamond-point bits for lettering. Similarly builders may have large diameter mortising bits for cutting out hinge gains and framing checkouts. Someone doing period reproductions or restorations may have a large selection of moulding profiles. I have two router tables, one with a large router and one for a trim router.įor cabinetmaking you may need a selection of raised panel bits and matching rail-and-stile bits for profiled doors, and perhaps also edgebanding bits for applying solid edging to veneered sheet goods. I operate one large, one mid-size and one trim router. I design and make contemporary furniture in solid timber and veneers and work equally between hand held and table-mounted routers. Your needs will depend on what you make and this applies particularly when facing the white noise that is router bit selection. Add to this the sheer variety of bits available and the situation can start to become intimidating for the average woodworker. Not only can they be used either handheld or secured under the table, but there are also different sizes to choose from, and then you need to pick between plunge and fixed bases. Few woodworking tools offer the versatility of the router.
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